This gave me the ability to create separate virtual networks for family, friends, work, and IoT devices so I could properly isolate networks with IoT devices that phone home to unknown places from the other networks. When the router failed, I replaced it with a Unifi Dream Machine SE. The Move is of course wirelessly connected. The Arc, Sub, and Amp are all connected through Ethernet. I have a SONOS Arc, Sub, Amp, Move, and a couple of wall mounted speakers. Is there a way to ABSOLUTELY wipe everything out of the Move? The “factory reset” really isn’t. It’s at least perhaps worth trying that and seeing what happens.The problem is my Move remembers an old WiFi network and attempts to reconnect to it despite having a factory reset done. which have had that difficulty in the past. The suggestion here comes from seeing some BT routers in the U.K. My thoughts are that the router might be having some difficulty passing the multicast packets between the two WiFi bands. or the same, as your 5Ghz band? If they are named the same, perhaps try separating them (by giving the 5Ghz band a different name) and put all your Sonos devices, including your Sonos controller device, on the 2.4Ghz band and just see if that perhaps resolves your issue. I can see all four gadgets connected to wifiĪnd yet the Connect Amp pops up only intermittently in Sonos S2 app. It should still be supported by Sonos, right? It seems my router is connecting the Connect amp to its 2.4 Hz band, and the rest of the Sonos gadgets (onex2 and a sub) to the 5 Hz band. Well, I bought the Connect amp together with the rest of the system, in 2018. I hope at least one of the suggestions above, help you to find the answer. I’m personally not sure why that may work, but SSDP is part of the UPnP protocol, but it’s used for auto-port forwarding mostly between WAN and LAN - if it makes no difference after trying it for a while, then leave it disabled.Īnd finally, check the mobile controller for running software, particularly security software, like VPN, Firewall, Anti-virus etc as those things too can affect multicast device discovery and see if disabling those things (if present) makes the non-discovery problem go away. One further matter that some users report some success with, is to perhaps check and see if UPnP protocol is enabled within your router configuration, some users have reported success with enabling that on their router. If it’s interference, then perhaps see what is nearby or in-between the C:A and AP…Īnother thing to try too, is if your controller device has MAC address spoofing enabled, then just see if disabling that may help. ![]() Hope that’s easy for you to follow and that it gets the Connect:Amp back up and running for you.įrom the recent information you have provided it does sound like a multicast device discovery issue - the fact your other speaker(s) always show up, lead me to think your C:A is either connecting to a different wireless access point, or its suffering from intermittent interference - if it is using a different AP, then simply blacklist the devices MAC address on that AP and see if that resolves the issue. Once the new network has been successfully added and any changes made to channels etc you can then uncable the Connect:Amp and allow it to run on either your ‘router’ or ‘extender’ WiFi signal. ![]() I also recommend the router and extender use the same ‘fixed’ non-overlapping WiFi channels (1, 6 or 11 for the 2.4Ghz band) and the same 20Mhz channel-width for that band. Once that’s done, ensure your extender is broadcasting the ‘exact’ same SSID and has the same password. I would recommend you wire the Connect:Amp temporarily to your new router and add the new wireless network to it, via the Sonos App, using the instructions in this Sonos Support link… What you haven’t mentioned in your post though, is if you have added the new WiFi network SSID/credentials, (extended or otherwise), to your Sonos device. ![]() It’s true that Sonos do not officially support WiFi extenders, as stated in their system requirements, but no doubt some WiFi devices out there may work.
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